Dusk in the bush. The air is cooling as the sun sets. The golden grass
has a shimmer of orange from the sun. We drive slowly scanning, looking,
hoping to catch a glimpse of a predator. This is the best time to be on
safari, dusk. The air is quiet and we watch, hoping for movement. I lean back in the vehicle, appreciating the silence, the smells, the air against my face. Alive.
We turn a
corner on a dirt path and see a pride of lions. They sit on the path,
watching, lounging. There are eight of them, including a large female
and some young males. We park the vehicle, engine off and watch. A
dove calls--the classic sound of African. The young male
lions get up, poke around in the tall grass and return to the road. The
grass is so high, that the lions come back to the road for easier hunting.
We watch the female, a gorgeous lion, strong, tawny in color. It's the
paws and the eyes of the lion that always amaze me, paws enormous and eyes a piercing
yellow.
The young males move into the bush,
we pay no notice enjoying the view of the female. Suddenly, the female
stands up and looks sharply to the trees, where the males have gone. She is intensely focused. Her
muscles tense and bulging, an incredible creature. She moves slowly
towards the trees. Stops. Then suddenly she starts running away from the trees, the opposite direction from where the males went.
Immediately thereafter, the bush explodes with dust, hooves, noise, movement, wildebeest, running like
rockets through the trees being chased by the young male lions who are
focused and fast. A flurry of activity.
With perfection they chase one of the wildebeest
precisely towards the crouched and waiting female lion who nails the
wildebeest instantly, pouncing out of the grass in total surprise to the wildebeest. All the lions circle and pounce on the wildebeest. More
wildebeest run by and the female leaves the one she has just taken down
and starts running after the others. Some of the lions chase after her,
while the other lions wait with the maimed wildebeest, paws pressed on it,
assuring it will not get away, while watching the other chase. Some of
the males return to the wildebeest, five of them on the animal,
trying to kill it. With each breath the wildebeest lets out a cry that
sounds like a failing horn. It's a cry I have heard before at the great
wildebeest migration crossing in Kenya. There, dozens of wildebeest crying as they
try to cross the river without getting killed by crocs. Here the
wildebeest cries as the lions try to kill her. It's a good couple of
minutes and agonizing hearing the crying wildebeest and watching
his legs flail in the air. The young male lions chew on him, paw at him,
but do not kill him.
The female returns from her other chase, cuts
right through the males and bites the neck of the wildebeest, eventually
ending his life. After that we watch in the dim light as the lions
feast on the wildebeest. Tearing through the skin with their sharp
teeth, licking the blood and devouring the meat. The sound of lions
eating in inexplicable, growls, grunts and roars. Nudging each other out of the way to get a better angle, its an awesome sight. We leave them to their
evening meal and make our way back in the dark to the lodge in awe.
How
the pride orchestrated the kill, perfectly funneling the
prey to the female, without, at least to our knowledge, any
communication, is mind boggling. An awesome glimpse into the intricacies
of the natural world. We were incredibly lucky to see the kill, despite
the images of Disney channel and National Geographic, seeing a kill is
rare. It's a brutal, yet awesome cycle of life.