Burkina Faso. West Africa. February 2010.Previously known as the Upper Volta. The meaning of Burkina Faso is "Country of Honest Men." We are in Ouagadougou, the capital, for meetings on our new program: Park W. Park W straddles Niger, BF and Benin—named after the “W” shape of the Niger River, the northern boundary of the Park. It is a critical water catchment for West Africa and one of the most significant Parks in the region. Like many Parks though, it is a paper park, meaning not really functional. Our challenge to make it work, link it with other protected areas and generate income for the surrounding communities so as to alleviate poverty and pressure on the natural landscapes. This country is dreadfully poor. The difference between the infrastructure in Kenya is astonishing, but one cannot compare—they are worlds apart.
We had three days in the field, drove west to Park W, then south through another Park—along the border of Benin and back to the capital. It is hot. A stifling hot; like sitting in an oven. Watching the kids play football in the hot sun makes me sweat. They say tourism is not feasible come March because then it gets hot. Excuse me, then it gets hot?
The communities are growing cotton on the edge of the Park, the country has been divided and international companies have contracts on certain sections. To get access to a loan, communities have to grow cotton—monopoly. An alternative funding mechanism would break this chain. The cotton depletes the soil, does not generate significant income for communities and the chemical application is significant. They also grow millet and other food products as well as shea butter –a product used in cosmetics in the USA and Europe. If we can develop linkage to the market, and to the land conservation; this would be a significant win. There have been attempts at tourism facilities, but the investments lacked follow through. There are hunting concessions, but the money that goes back to the community is minimal. We met with a few communities living on the edge of the Park. They shared their concerns, challenges and ideas for opportunities.
We were to travel to Niger, but there was a coup and the border closed. This is the third coup in West Africa in the past 6 months. This was a clean coup, easy in and out, which has made people speculate who orchestrated it. Ivory Coast just blew up as well. Political stability is of course a challenge to working in Africa. International donors have pulled out of Niger, so focus shifts, people suffer.
Burkina is a former French colony. All of our meetings are in French. In the morning, I buy fresh baguettes from the lady at the kiosk for 20 cents (a rip off by local standards). Magnificent colors. The air pollution is horrid, many people riding mopeds. Best sighting to date: a woman in traditional wear riding her moped in city traffic with a basket of strawberries balanced on her head. A man rides his bike with ten chickens hanging from the handle bars.
With climate change the expanse of the desert is rapid. The doubters of climate change should come to Africa, then dare to doubt. The effect here means a mass migration of people from the north to the south, resulting in fierce competition for water and grass. Globally, this movement of people for resources will be a massive source of conflict. It has already started. The nomads from the north are wrapped in bright blue cloth or black, they are selling cloth, Turak leather and swords in Ouaga.
The challenge here is significant, but there are opportunities. But, like all of Africa, it is so very complicated. Nothing is as it appears.
