As I run around the harbor boats come in and out, new and old. The rice barges reminds me of my time in Bangkok and the car tire bumpers dangling on the side of the boats bring back memories of the boat I worked on in the Chao Phraya River. Drumming fills the air and I see red and yellow flags flapping in the wind. A crowd gathers and as I nudge my way through to see what is happening the smell of incense becomes strong. A group of young men dressed in colorful silk uniforms carry an elaborate dragon, his head made of huge, delicate feathers. A group of older men in the classic grey Chinese suit are clearly the honorary guests, they lead the crowd to a pile of offerings and a great red satin ornamental house. The drum and tambourine fill the air. An ancient looking man in a long cape, which looks like an oriental rug, and wise looking face with a wispy long goatee leads the band with methodical steps.
I carry on running and notice red and yellow flags in the water, dragon boats--beautiful, long wooden crew boats with an ornate and dramatic gold dragon at the bow. I think of my nephew, wishing he were here to see these historical and ornamental boats. There are 24 people in the boat. Their oars are short. The coxwain beats a large elaborate drum and the paddlers go to the beat. As I sweat and run, I pass men and women doing Tai-Chi in the park. They move thoughtfully, with focus, slowly, with their breath. Perhaps that is what I should be doing. Slowing down, taking pause, following the way. Oh, I will do that later, the perpetual pledge to pause and breath, ha, keep making the pledge. Another group are doing Tai-Chi with shiny silver swords, together, they follow a routine, their movements in unison, their swords shimmering in the sun. They move like birds.
Later that day I make my way to Repulse Bay, a lovely cove on the south of the island. The story goes that the bay was used by pirates, but they were 'repulsed' by the British Army; thus, the name. Now it is a beautiful cove, with light color sand and a view of tropical looking volcanic islands. There is a strip of stores that make you feel like you are in California. I get a fresh juice at the yoga store and watch the people pass. At the end of the bay is a Taoist shrine with a huge statue of Kwun Yam, a goddess associated with compassion and kindness, and Tin Hau, goddess of the sea. I like a religion with female gods and one cannot argue with people kneeling, praying and lighting incense to compassion and kindness. An ornate, small red bridge connects another section and is known as the bridge of longevity. Two beautiful elephant adorn a pagoda. People rub the trunk, close their eyes, murmur works of prayer and touch their praying hands to their forehead thoughtfully. Praying to the elephants, another thing I like about this religion.
From my very limited knowledge, and trust me, it is limited, Taoism is a religious tradition of Chinese origins, which emphasizes living in harmony with the Tao, the way, in harmony and movement with nature. Taoist ethics vary, but in general tend to emphasize We Wei, (effortless action), "naturalness," simplicity, spontaneity, and the three treasures "compassion," "frugality," and "humility." I was just discussing with my parents the book 'Living Buddha Living Christ.' An excellent book that draws the obvious and distinct parallels and similarities between the two religions and leaders. It is the same with Taoism--compassion, frugality and humility--the three treasures, and yet, aren't these the core of what Jesus taught us? If only we'd remember, not focus on the 'who' that taught us but embrace the core principles, especially today, in this mad world we live, where we discuss barriers, not bonds, differences not commonalities, walls not welcomes, hubris not humility.
In the afternoon I am in a Tao temple in down town Hong Kong, on Hollywood Street--one must appreciate the irony of being in an ancient temple in Hong Kong on Hollywood Street. The air in the temple is filled with incense, literally. People are wearing masks because of the smoke. You can buy a batch of 20 sticks of incense for about 10 HK Dollars. People light the whole batch, say a prayer, bow and stick the incense in a gold bowl filled with sand at the base of the various statues. People bring fruit, flowers and prayer papers. I stand to the side and watch, the devotion, the prayer. Breath in the incense feeling the burn in my nostrils and eyes. Built in 1847, the Man Mo temple houses the God of Literature (Man) and the God of War (Mo). Again, I am struck by the similarities in religion as I am reminded of the incense that the priest carried in the catholic church in an ornate gold chamber. He would swing it side by side and as children, I remember dreading this moment in mass as I did not like the powerful smell.
I wander the city, getting lost in the chaotic streets, passing markets along cobble staircases, restaurants filled with people eating noodles out of big white bowls, gardens filled with fig trees and stores filled with everything from cheap souvenirs to Gucci. The simple act of walking is a treat for me, not something one does in Nairobi. Just wandering, without thought, without caution, is a privilege.
I make my way towards the water and come upon a square filled with women, literally, filled with women. I look in every direction for a male face, but just see women. They are all sitting on cardboard, they have taken card board boxes, flattened them and they are laying on them, sitting on them, picnicking on them. It is a peculiar site as I picture people picnicking on comfortable blankets, outside. These women are on cardboard, on cement, in the central city square. My friend explains later to me that they are 'the workers,' the house help, mostly Phillipinno. It is their day off. And they gather on Sundays, to spend time together in this central space.
This week, Wednesday, is International Women's Day. I suspect it will go unnoticed for these women who sit on their cardboard on their day off. I hope somehow the compassion of Taoism, or whatever religion of their employers, will seep in and make their days a little bit better.
I walk through the flower market, bird market, fish market, gem market and the ladies market. Its as if there is a market for everything. The colors, smells, sights are invigorating, perplexing and stimulating.
The goldfish market was fascinating. Walls and walls covered with bags of fish. What is it with humans and wildlife. I found everything. Turtles, tortoises, chameleons, snakes, birds, fish of all kind.
In the evening I have a bowl of noodle soup (yes, there is a more ornate name to it in Chinese) and some dim-sum. I am grateful that Hong Kong is a large city because the catastrophe I create with my chop sticks is epic and at least nobody knows me, nor will they ever see me again. I have splattered everything around me with the broth as the noodles go flying out of my chop sticks and mouth. My face is so close to the table so that I can simply shovel the food into my mouth, I literally could rest my chin on the table. Elegant.
On my last day I take the metro to Lantau Island to see the big Buddha. This Buddha is giant, 34 M high and weighs over 250 metric tons, it is bronze and beautiful. Whatever your religion, standing at the base of this Buddha one feels a sense of awe and a recognition of something bigger, something greater, whatever that may be for each person. This Buddha is called the Tian Tan Buddha. He sits on top of a bronze lotus flower on top of an alter. He is surrounded by six beautiful bronze statues referred to as the 'Offering of the Six Devas' because they are offering him flowers, incense, lamp, ointment, fruit and music. These gifts represent the Six Perfections of generosity, morality, patience, zeal, mediation and wisdom, all of which are necessary for enlightenment.
To reach the Buddha you climb 268 steps. The Buddha is enormous, impressive. There are tons of visitors and I am curious watching each one, to understand why they are here. From the Spanish ladies that leap on the count of five to get their photo in front of the Buddha as they are mid-air, to the Asian who is being filmed for a documentary at the base, to the older Chinese woman on her knees praying. The Buddha's right hand is up and facing outward, this a position symbolizing protection, peace and dispelling of fear.
Next to the Buddha is the Po Lin Monastery a colorful and ornate Buddhist monastery founded in 1906 by three monks. Inside are incredible gold Buddhas, dozens of them. Similar to the other monasteries, people come with offerings and light incense. I purchase a stack of incense and join a group of Chinese women. We light the incense, say our prayers, place the stick in a large lotus shaped bowl and slowly back away as the smell and smoke carry our prayers into the air.
